101 Champagnes & Sparkling Wines To Try Before You Die, Davy Zyw

Inside Bordeaux stands out not because it is well written and meticulously researched and presented, which it most certainly is. I expected it to be just that and it met my expectations. It stands out because it’s not a display of deep, specialist knowledge published to showcase the region and the author. It’s also not a passionate paean to the glory of the region or the romance of the terroir. It is about terroir and it does tell us that Bordeaux is even more wonderful and exciting than we thought it was. But it’s written with a very specific mission that has a solid, practical purpose based on close collaboration with scientists who are leaders in their field.

Ungrafted vines. Same winemaking as for the straight Quinta do Noval. TA 4.68 g/l, RS 99 g/l, pH 3.51.

Black core with wide purple rim. Less exuberant than the Noval at the moment, less sweet-smelling and scented but it has immediate elegance and purity, almost subtle in this context. Opening up to bergamot and tea leaf. So concentrated it is all tight and closed up even though you can see it is rich and packed with fine black fruit. Spicy, tangy and mouth-watering. Outstanding length and promise.

Drink 2037 - 2070

Julia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com (May 2019)