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Prices continue to rise in Burgundy, due to small crops and ceaseless demand. My search for value has sent me running for the hills – in the form of the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune and Hautes-Côtes de Nuits. These two rather wordy appellations cover a total of 1,600 hectares (an area slightly larger than the Margaux AOC) on the hills above and to the west of the escarpment of the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits.
Surprisingly perhaps, this area used to be more densely planted than it is today. Phylloxera in the late 19th century, followed by the difficult financial times of the early 20th century, saw many vineyards grubbed up and never replanted. In recent years, it has become something of a melting pot: several different forces are coming together to push up quality – and bring deserved recognition to this once-forgotten region.
The reason for this increased interest is twofold. First, we’ve seen much warmer vintages in the last decade or so, with alcohol levels rising as a consequence. While conscientious growers are managing this challenge well, the cooler microclimate of the Hautes-Côtes is of great benefit. Here, the extra 50-100 metres’ altitude, along with the cooling effect of the many valleys, ensures the grapes ripen a little more slowly. Second, there’s the economic reality that competition for fruit and land from the prized heart of Burgundy – the Côte d’Or – is so high that prices for both have rocketed in recent years. This has forced ambitious producers in these fêted villages to head a little higher if they want to expand.
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