Cerbaiona, Tuscany

Its new owners, however, under the leadership of founding partner Matthew Fioretti, felt that the only way the wines would show the full potential of their unique vineyards was for the estate to be entirely recreated, both in the vineyards and in the winery. It is hard to convey the astonishing attention to detail and commitment to quality that Fioretti is applying to every aspect of wine production and also to the renovation of the property itself.

The original three hectares of vineyards have been entirely replanted with new clones, a process completed in 2021, including an additional one-hectare plot on their steepest slope that was previously planted with olive trees. This, Matthew believes, will prove to be the finest plot of the estate. Mirroring his meticulous and reflective rather than formulaic approach, plantings were made with a variety of different vine spacing and densities, and different training systems adapted to the individual characteristics of each plot. The vineyards have also been converted to organic viticulture. Integrated underneath the historic property, a state-of-the-art new winery was completed in 2021.

In his own words, Matthew’s approach is firmly ‘more of a craft than an art’, with the goal to produce wines with less extraction and more purity. As with any true craft however, there is an inevitable process of evolution and refinement, and in the case of Matthew, this is allied to refreshingly honest self-appraisal and seemingly inexhaustible energy.

Fittingly he has chosen to also apply his fresh, independent-thinking to wine journalists and the process of scoring wines. In asking journalists not to apply a point-rating to his wines, he hopes that his wines will be defined by their inherent qualities and unique characteristics. For him, a points score is a number that ‘detaches critics and consumers from the beauty and real nature of wine and moreover, removes (them) from the work and insight of those who grow grapes and produce wine…a wine should instil wonder and curiosity’.

Welcome to the new Cerbaiona. An estate transformed, but one which is only at the beginning of its journey.