A beginner’s guide to Burgundy
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What is Burgundy wine?
Burgundy wine comes from the region in eastern France of the same name, where they produce world-class white and red wine. White Burgundy is made from Chardonnay and occasionally Aligoté. Most of the reds are made from Pinot Noir. The wines are typically prized for their freshness, energy and complexity. The whites can range from steely and mineral to buttery and peachy. The reds tend towards the perfumed and ethereal, in contrast to the structure and rigour of, say, Bordeaux.
The heartland is the Côte d’Or, which is split into two parts, to the north (Côte de Nuits) and south (Côte de Beaune) of the town of Beaune. Burgundy producers – often called “domaines” – are typically very small compared to the châteaux of Bordeaux. It’s also quite easy to get confused between producers, where you can find domaines with very similar names within the same village.
What are the best value Burgundy wines?
There are many sought-after villages in Burgundy – names like Vosne-Romanée, Chambolle-Musigny, Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault, for example. These tend to command a heavy price premium. However, the great thing about Burgundy’s relatively compact size is that you don’t have to go far to find value; it could be just a matter of a few hundred metres. Always bear in mind that in Burgundy, producer is key: I always look for the producer first when browsing a wine list. Don’t be seduced by a famous village on the label.
For value whites, look to Chablis, Montagny and, particularly, the Mâconnais – where you’ll find the likes of Mâcon, St Véran, Pouilly-Fuissé and Pouilly-Vinzelles. When made by conscientious growers, these wines offer great value compared to the big names of the Côte de Beaune. Closer still are the villages just up the valleys from the likes of Meursault or Corton. Look out for St Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Pernand-Vergelesses. I’d also strongly recommend looking at Bourgogne Blanc from respected producers in the famous villages; their vines tend to be just down the slope from the more expensive stuff.
For reds, look to either end of the Côte d’Or: Marsannay and Fixin in the north can be a dead ringer for Gevrey-Chambertin; while Santenay and Maranges in the south are my go-to wines when I’m eating out in Burgundy. Also, look at Beaune, whose wines are experiencing a revival. Neighbouring villages Savigny-lès-Beaune and Chorey-lès-Beaune are also well worth seeking out.
Finally, head for the hills: the Hautes-Côtes (high slopes) are Burgundy’s new frontier. It’s telling that top domaines including Sylvain Cathiard, Etienne Sauzet and Leflaive, among others, have planted or purchased vines here.
Which Burgundy vintages are the best?
This really depends on your personal taste. No two vintages are the same, and there can be quite a bit of variation in styles. Broadly speaking, you can divide recent vintages into two camps: “classic”, like 2016, 2021 and 2024; and “modern”, like 2018, 2019, 2020, 2022 and 2023. The 2017 vintage sits somewhere between the two.
The classic vintages tend towards lower alcohol, higher acidity and a more restrained fruit profile. The more modern vintages typically produce riper styles of wine with higher alcohol levels and lower acidity. For drinking now, I love the 2017s in both colours. But if you want a vintage to buy and lay down for later, 2020 or 2022 are probably your best bet.
How can I choose a good Burgundy wine?
Burgundy’s strength is perhaps its biggest weakness: it has thousands of producers, so choosing a good one can seem baffling. This is where working with a great wine merchant is key. We’ve done a lot of the hard work already, by choosing a range of about 80 producers that we think represent the best of what Burgundy is producing. We’ve worked with many of these domaines for over 40 years, others for just a few. Of course, the question of what “good” means has a slightly different answer for everyone; perhaps it's a wine that will impress your in-laws, fit perfectly into your cellar or match your Sunday lunch. There’s a wide range of styles and price points covered in our range, so hopefully there’s something for everyone.
What is the most important thing to know when buying Burgundy wine?
Producer, producer, producer. Find a grower or winemaker whose style you like and buy their wines. Then, ask your merchant for advice on other producers who make wine in a similar style.
How do you read a Burgundy wine label?
Burgundy labels can look complicated, but they actually follow a set formula, governed as they are by certain rules. Typically, you should see the name of the person or people who have made it. This may be “Domaine” followed by the family name, or something similar. You should also see the appellation (the delimited area where the grapes were grown). This might be the name of a specific village, like Chablis, Meursault or Volnay. Alternatively, the name may cover a broader geographical area, such as Bourgogne – which theoretically covers the entire Burgundy region.
If the wine does have a specific village name, this may be followed by the name of a particular vineyard, indicating that the wine has come from one single site within the village. The words “Premier Cru” indicate a step up in the quality hierarchy. “Grand Cru” indicates the top of the quality pyramid, accounting for just two percent of Burgundy’s vineyards.
When is Burgundy wine ready to drink?
This depends on your personal preference. Some people like to age their wine to enjoy the “tertiary” aromas that come with time in the bottle. In mature red Burgundy, you’ll often find aromas like forest floor and autumn leaves. For whites, you can expect notes of dried fruits and nuts. You don’t necessarily need to wait, though: Burgundy wines tend to be quite approachable in youth. These days, more producers are making wines which are easier to drink when young. In addition, the warmer vintages we’ve seen recently also give riper fruit, which also make the wines more appealing early on.
Why is place/vineyard/terroir so important in Burgundy?
Burgundy is quite small, but the variations between – and even within – each vineyard can be significant. The region has a marginal climate, where grapes only just manage to ripen each year, so every factor plays a part. Where the vineyard is on the slope, which way it faces, the makeup of the soil, the age of the vines, how the vines are farmed: all of this and more determines how the wines taste. And don’t forget the person or people who grow the grapes and make the wine. Additionally, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are great at expressing the small but significant differences between different villages, vineyards and parcels of vines.
What sort of food works well with Burgundy wine?
Burgundy wines are generally very food friendly. Wine and food go hand-in-hand in this part of the world. The huge variety of styles, including cool-climate reds, make Burgundy a very versatile food wine. Chablis works brilliantly with sushi, seafood and fresh goat’s cheese. White Burgundy from further south tends to be richer and pair better with creamy dishes, white meat and local cheeses such as Comté or Epoisses. In the UK, look for Lincolnshire Poacher or even Stinking Bishop. Red Burgundy can be light and refreshing enough to enjoy on its own, or with salads and charcuterie – especially if served lightly chilled. Richer expressions pair well with more hearty fare such as stews, red meats or lightly spiced dishes. Locals would no doubt recommend jambon persillé for whites and a classic boeuf bourguignon for the reds.
